Clothing

Old Sacramento Living History Program
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1840 Cotton Muslin Gown
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Purchased in NE CT and was told that it had been worn as a wedding gown by an ancestor. The gown is composed by a bodice and skirt in the style of the mid 1840's. The smocking at the "V" yoke in bront and at the back is typical of the period. The skirt has a very full round skirt is 163" wide which is longer at the back. The shoulders are dropped with rolled seams. The sleeve itself has a decorative cap at the top and a sort of under sleeve. The rest of the sleeve fits tight to the arm by means of fitting at the elbow. The sleeves and the skirt have deep folds that are adorned with marvelous whitework. The shoulder area and the V neck in the front are adorned with whitework as well. The bodice has an underlining of a more solid cotton that has many hooks and eyes beneath. The bodice is heavily boned. One bone down the front to the top of the V, one at each side at one on either side of the center bone that extend up to the bosom. The outfit is in excellent consition with only one less than eraser size hole (pictured) which is lost in the gathering at the back of the neck. No other significant stains or damage. The hole could be remedied by a few small stitches. This appears to be almost entirely handstiched. IF there is machine stiching it was on a primitive machine primarily on the seams d/t the appearance of the stiches. The bodice bust measure 28", waist 21", shoulders are 17" from shoulder seam to seam ( of course they are dropped shoulders. The fabric is sturdy and clean.
1868 Watered Silk 4 piece Gown
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circa 1868 lady's four piece floral and striped watered silk ensemble in a soft lavender on a beige colored ground. This dress was redesigned from an earlier circa 1860 garment to update for fashion trends of the period as evidenced by the tucks to the sleeves and the addition of an overskirt. The bodice and fichu, however, were left unchanged. The bodice is lined and stayed, with a front hook and eye closure, is piped at the neckline, and has ruffled accents to the drop shoulder seams. It has a matching crinoline lined fichu that is attached at the back of the neck, trimmed in a gold knotted fringed gimp that repeats at the forearms and cuffs of the modified coak sleeves and at the hem of the overskirt. A sarcenet lined skirt with a cartridge pleated back to the waistband, and a matching overskirt that is cut at the back on the bias, both with back hook and eye closures. Both are accented with bands of lavender silk satin. A 36" bust, 26" waist, and 59" from shoulder to front hem. The fichu has some minor surface splits, most at the collar's back. The bodice has surface wear at the front opening, some age stains at the cuffs, and surface failure and stains at the armscyes. The overskirt and skirt have a few small surface splits, a few pin dot age flaws, and some wear to the waistband and floor brush. A few hooks and eyes are missing.
1869 Calico House Wrapper
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A very pretty original circa 1869 lady's house dress or wrapper made of a lovely violet striped calico printed cotton. Piped at the drop shoulders of the coak sleeves, with a ruffled collar and cuffs. A cartridge pleated back to the waistband, with a small bustled ruffled tail. Nine buttons to the front closure and a turned hem. The bodice is lined. A 35" bust, loose fitting waist and 55" from shoulder to front hem. In very nice clean sound condition, with a few tiny age flaws, one different button, one horizontal seam at the front, and light perspiration stains to the lining of the armscyes. A wonderful post Civil War transitional period house dress.
1870 Polonaise
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1870's Polonaise style printed cotton bustle gown, with MOP buttons to close in front, two short bones in front, shoulder seams are piped, there is an inside waist tape with a hook & eye, a gauze and lace frill, it's unlined. The dress consists of three layers: The bustle "tail" in back lifts to reveal two separate polonaise sections, which are gathered and caught up at the sides in the style of the 18th century, underneath these is the skirt, which has several pleats allowing it to be brought forward to cover the petticoat which would have been worn underneath. The one I am showing is not included, this auction is for the overdress only. We believe the fabric to be of 19th century French or Continental origin. 18th century styles were worn throughout the 19th century in Europe, and 18th century looking fabrics continued to be manufactured for some time into the 19th century. The weave of this substantial cotton is very similar to late 18th century ivory or off-white cotton or linen, the charming mis-registration of the pink, blue, green & yellow floral print is also typical of the 18th century. The cotton gauze and lace frill is more typical of the bustle era. The quality of the materials used suggests that this was worn as an everyday dress rather than a costume. It's a 32 1/2" bust, 25" waist, 15 1/2" between the shoulder seams, 48" long from the top of the back of the neck to the hem. Very good condition, some light age discoloration seen in a few places, a light/medium spot about the size of a nickel, a hole about 1/8" diameter, some restitching of a shoulder seam is needed, one of the tucks has come out of one of the sleeves, they should have three on each sleeve. The white gauze and lace frill is torn in a few places. The bones are starting to wear through the cotton fabric, this is minor. The buttons could be adjusted a bit better, though it looks very good the way it sits, as you can see. The fabric is exceedingly strong, the dress doesn't seem to have been worn very often. An excellent representation of the Colonial Revival style, in both fabric and form.
1880 Beaver Top Hat
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Original Antique 19th century Victorian Gentleman's REAL BEAVER fur TOP HAT circa 1880s. Good condition. Really rich looking shiny BEAVER. No mothing. Silk hat band. Wide leather sweat band. Cream SILK LINING. Stamped: "LONDON / Extra Quality / UNION / STOCKHOLM - GOTEBURG." Sweat band is perforated with initials "NF." Hat has excellent form. There is some minor wear to edge of crown top. Lighter colored brim foundation is visible at places along the brim edge, where original ribbed silk binding tape is worn or missing... tape can be replaced, or, exposed brim edge can be touched up with a black sharpie, and you would never tell the difference. MEASUREMENTS: Height 5-3/4 inches; Circumference at inside/sweatband 21 inches.

1880 Silk Bustle Visiting Gown
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This is a very stylish 1880 silk bustle visiting gown. The two piece gown is made of light brown silk faille. The bodice has a center panel that is made of ivory moire silk. The wide lapels and the edge of the sleeves are trimmed with think bands of ivory silk. The bodice closes up the front with small ivory crocheted buttons. The bodice is boned and lined in printed cotton. The skirt has wonderful detail work. It has a front apron drape and a knotted sash on one side that is trimmed with brown silk fringe. The back of the skirt has deep pleats to allow for the bustle cage. The gown is being displayed over a bustle cage that is not included. The skirt is lined with cotton. The gown is in very good condition. The fabric is sturdy and there are no holes or splits in the silk faille fabric. There is some fraying on the ivory moire fabric near the mid waist area that is mostly covered by the button closure and a very small area of light underarm discoloration. A most presentable gown. Bust 34 Waist 24. Length of skirt 39 ins.
Baby Bonnet 1830-1850
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A very sweet original circa 1830's to 1850's baby girl's pale pink hand quilted silk bonnet. Lightly wadded, lined in a fine cotton, with a piped seam to the crown, a muslin lined neck curtain, a dainty back bow, a finely ruffled brim, and silk chin ties. In very good clean sound condition, with some fray to the ties, some light soiling to the lining, and a few extremely minor age flaws and spots, most to the back of the crown.
Ball Gown 1850
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Ballgown 1850s
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One-piece ivory silk faille dress (b: 28",w: 23" and bottom circumference: 140") and was professionally cleaned. It displays well and any shawl or jewelry looks ravishing with this beauty! It has been entirely hand-sewn and has a stiffly boned bodice with reinforced seams and closes up the back with 10 original flattened brass hooks and eyes. The bodice is piped at the neckline, shoulder, arms and waist. The skirt has been attached with tiny cartridge pleating which became popular in the 1840's. Skirt is unlined except for polished cotton hem facing at bottom. Length of skirt from waist is 41" and bottom sweep is 140"-not quite the fullness that was to come at the Civil War period. There is a slight stubborn stain on front skirt that hides well in the folds and breakage to the silk under the arms. Otherwise, the dress is bright and pliable for the age.
Beaded Collar
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Beaded Reticule
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An original Civil War era lady's 3" by 4 1/2" finely hand beaded reticule. A well detailed stamped brass pressure bar closure frame and a pierced brass bobble at the bottom. A deep blue silk lining, and a lovely pattern to the beadwork. In very good clean sound condition, with extremely minor bead loss.
Beaded Velvet Sewing Bag
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A lovely original circa 1830's to 1850 lady's golden silk velvet work or sewing bag that is pleasingly ornamented with brown highlights and fine intricate floral beadwork. A twisted beaded fringe, and a brown silk satin lining and top. 7" by 8" when laid flat. In good clean sound condition, with very minimal bead loss, and some shatter to the brown silk satin. A rare early 19th century work bag.
Beaver fur and silk top hat
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Beaver Top Hat
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Blue Silk Gown 1866
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A very attractive circa 1866 lady's rich royal blue silk faille two piece ensemble with a trained skirt. The bodice is lined and stayed, is piped at the neck, with a V back construction, trimmed at the armscyes and cuffs with bands of organza and pleated ruffles to the modified coak sleeves. Passamenterie buttons to the front closure with hooks and eyes near the waist, and a tabbed hem that is bound in a light twill tape. The trained skirt is lined in sarcenet, with a gored front and a cartridge pleated back to the waistband, a side hook and eye closure, a side of front pocket, a matching pleated band above the deep ruffled and pleated flounced hem, and a faced hem with a twill tape floor brush. A 36" bust, 24" waist and 54" from shoulder to front hem. In good clean sound condition, with a few tiny scattered age flaws that include a few very small surface only holes, a few organic drip stains, some surface wear at the armscyes, one 2" split at a back tab, splits to the sarcenet skirt lining and at the facing of the train, and wear to the twill tape floor brush. The lowest bodice button is a slightly darker replacement. All is reflected in the reserve price for this pretty Civil War era transitional ensemble.
Blue Silk Taffeta Ball Gown 1860s
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This is a dramatic two piece Civil War ball gown. The gown is made of vivid blue silk taffeta. The bodice has a low square cut neckline and it is trimmed with black chantilly lace and tiny white beads. The sleeves are trimmed in the same manner. The bodice has a long pointed front and back. The armscyes, neck and waist are piped. The bodice is lined with cotton and closes up the front with silver and blue buttons. The full skirt is lined with cotton and attaches to the waist band with cartridge pleating. The gown is in a most presentable condition. The fabric is very sturdy. There are three tiny surface only holes in the bodice, small under arm repair gussets that do not show when displayed and a couple of tiny age spots near the edge of the hem. A truly magnificent Civil War display gown. Approximate Measurements. Bust 32 Waist 23. Length of skirt 44 ins. Width at hem 144 ins.
Bodice, Silk Taffeta 1850
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This lined bodice is made of a woven striped silk taffeta. It has a blue and brown woven strip running through a golden base. Alternate covered buttons adorn the front in a decorative manner. Closes up front with old flattened brass hooks and eyes. Note decorative buttons. Long narrow sleeves with ruching at top. Piped at neckline, shoulder, cuff and waistlines. Some underarm and a little back shredding.
Bonnet Back, Whitework on Muslin
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bowler
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Boys Shoes 1834
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An extremely rare original pair of circa 1834 little boy's shoes that are identified to one Charles A. Hill. The note found inside reads "C.A. Hill's Shoes 1834." Also found here was a 1958 newspaper article about his grand circa 1874 brick mansion at 39 Queen Street, Worcester, MA., then about to be demolished in the name of progress. Both papers are included with these little darlings. Fine brown Moroccan leather, with two part uppers, long vamps with squared toes, punched eyelets with original ribbon ties, cloth linings and foot beds, and straight kid leather soles. 5" heel to toe and 1 1/2" wide outside measure. In fine supple museum quality condition, likely never worn if at all, with only a few tiny creases, and some minor fray to the ends of the ties.
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